01 / recommendation
Mentions personal use of Bill Walsh's book.
“But what I can have as my carve out and is perfect for Acquired, years ago, I read Bill Walsh's book.”
- Speaker
- David Rosenthal
- Episode
- Hermès
- Publisher
- Acquired
Acquired / episode intelligence
Speakers in the public record
Claim mix
Evidence policy
Every row below preserves an exact excerpt. Identified speakers are linked; unresolved voices are labeled and excluded from people counts.
Claim ledger
81 published records
01 / recommendation
“But what I can have as my carve out and is perfect for Acquired, years ago, I read Bill Walsh's book.”
02 / recommendation
“Right, especially if they lose. But what I can have as my carve out and is perfect for Acquired, years ago, I read Bill Walsh's book.”
03 / recommendation
“I looked at that thing five times during research lusting after it and ultimately closed the browser tab being like, I wear an Apple watch all day every day.”
04 / belief
“I don't think Arnaud was wrong. I think he had a point, and I think the company at the time didn't get it.”
05 / belief
“Yup, which I think is very China focused. It's very interesting to me that they are trying to appeal, especially to a younger demographic, with a lot of their recent perfumes and selling in department stores.”
06 / belief
“In this case, when you read about the Hermes family fortune today, it's the Dumas family that are obviously the CEO and the artistic director that you hear about visibly. But really, I think all the sons-in-laws and all of their descendants become active in the business.”
07 / uncertainty
“Maybe, maybe not. I don't know. Whether I would have is irrelevant. Hermes should be selling $2000 handmade Apple Watch bands.”
08 / belief
“I was wondering if I could stump you with this. They bought, I believe a 30%-35%.”
09 / belief
“I think you realize this before anybody of like, the windows in our stores are these portals into this world of dream and art.”
10 / belief
“There's this almost dreamlike color palette that they use, starting with a base of orange and having this explosive rainbow of fun, but in some ways it all feels natural, from the earth, and just whimsy. I think that you nailed it, David, whimsical.”
11 / belief
“I believe you need at least another three years, if not more, before you're allowed to touch the Birkins and the Kellys.”
12 / belief
“Hermes has always thrived by figuring out how to be above it all and it be counterposition to the rest of luxury. It's an open question, I think, of whether the Apple partnership helps that or hurts that.”
13 / uncertainty
“Again, are we going to do that better than an equity research analyst? I don't know.”
14 / belief
“I would say, Hermes has figured out that there actually is a pretty big niche for craftsmanship or at least people who desire the brand of craftsmanship, and they're exceptional at value capture around that.”
15 / belief
“To bring it back to the late 1800s, I think the point you're making here is, when Charles-Emile was apprenticing, there was no other example of what this company could become.”
16 / uncertainty
“I don't know if she ever did wear jeans, but she sure as hell wouldn't be photographed wearing jeans.”
17 / belief
“I think a lot of people who are buying Hermes are buying it because it's Hermes.”
18 / belief
“I think to this day, it's a huge part of the defensibility of Hermes and Louis Vuitton too.”
19 / belief
“I think there are two reasons. That's one reason. The other reason is they needed a brand that was going to appeal to pretty much everybody.”
20 / commitment
“To identify Hermes at this point in time, and as we will see, he makes a Incredible amount of money on these trades, today, Hermes is a $230 billion market cap company, and he starts buying at below $10 billion.”
21 / belief
“Hermes can be an even rarer and greater quality business if they ever wanted to work with us." I think he's genuine about that.”
22 / belief
“I think a lot of those, there's a silversmith and a tableware manufacturer that they own large stakes into, so it's like a related party.”
23 / uncertainty
“I don't know the exact revenue figure when he took over, but let's call it $50 million in annual revenue.”
24 / belief
“Two other things that I saw in the research and I think Bernard probably saw here, too.”
25 / belief
“I think the same thing about anything that is machine sewn so it can be mass produced and have availability in every store.”
26 / belief
“I think the latter part, it's not actually about the dollar amount. It's about the price difference, because if it's three times as much as it was a decade ago, it's harder to trust the intrinsic value of the good if it's fluctuating all over the place.”
27 / uncertainty
“I don't know if it was that he had his head in the sand or more just like he didn't want to go build a big company.”
28 / belief
“I believe that the reason that they do this is to maintain goodwill with their customer base and maintain Nike's image as a brand that is accessible to everyone.”
29 / uncertainty
“I don't know why anybody else would want a big tote bag that could carry your boots.”
30 / commitment
“We will only expand into an area if we feel that we can serve the local clientele that lives there well.”
31 / evaluation
“All this is happening, this is the best thing that could ever happen to Thierry.”
32 / belief
“Every time they come in at a generational transfer, and the company and the brand is under existential threat, even though we think of Hermes as the most unassailable thing in the world right now, but finds itself at a moment where it can be assailed.”
33 / belief
“I think really in an even more dramatic fashion, in 2001, right after he lost Gucci, Bernard quietly buys an initial stake in Hermes of 4.”
34 / belief
“Even though it's completely unnecessary, it just feels right for Acquired. I think you and I can each maintain 24.”
35 / belief
“I would say European generally, but French specifically, has an ability to do this in any geography as it develops.”
36 / belief
“A big part of Hermes fashion and probably the biggest part of I think the scarf fashion these days is tying the scarves on your bags, on your accessories, on various parts of your body.”
37 / belief
“I think Louis Vuitton was the royal laities, I believe, and he packed the trunks.”
38 / uncertainty
“I don't know if that was just the day in the store or if that is part of the policy.”
39 / observation
“Fast forward all the way to 1988, when Axel Dumas has his very first internship with the company, this is crazy.”
40 / belief
“There, I think, is a reasonable indictment to make that many of you will want to make on all of luxury and say, it's just excess, they don't actually create value in the world, and then they capture a tremendous amount of value because they just have a brand that allows people to social signal, and all luxury is excess.”
41 / belief
“The business and the craft are intimately intertwined, they cannot be separated. This is a playbook theme I want to pull all the way forward, but it's so critical to understand about Hermes and what really in my mind differentiates it from LVMH.”
42 / belief
“I think there's another very real way to look at it, which is how the company describes themselves that starts with the constraints of the craft.”
43 / belief
“When you're buying Hermes today, you don't start from a place of, you know, I think I want some of the very best sewn leather goods I can find.”
44 / belief
“There's metal parts, which is a J3L subsidiary that I think literally makes the clasps and stuff like that.”
45 / belief
“I think also, as a client too, at least in scarves, if you entered the Hermes scarf universe, you're not buying any other scarves.”
46 / belief
“I think part of this is that the Hermes brand transformation modernization was probably still underway.”
47 / belief
“Lauren is, I think, pretty much bar none, the very best business of fashion and business of luxury reporter out there.”
48 / belief
“I think the perspective of many folks that are coming out of this 70s, 80s era of luxury, that's what's interesting.”
49 / belief
“I think also just from a psychological perspective, a couple dominoes fall here.”
50 / belief
“I think we referenced this earlier in the episode, Hermes employs 7000 master craftspeople, artisans.”
51 / belief
“Either way, in 1919, Emile buys him out and says, I believe in my ability to lead this company, making this transition into the automobile era.”
52 / belief
“I think even the other luxury brands out there, most of them probably do have some craftsmen, some stuff that's done by hand, some components of some products done by hand.”
53 / belief
“I think the takeaway is real that this knowledge is transmitted from one generation to the other in the very same way that it was from father to son all the way back at the founding of the company.”
54 / belief
“We realized, oh, this is not ever told by any of the family members or company executives anywhere.”
55 / observation
“The way to wow the people that you want to wow is through the raw craftsmanship.”
56 / belief
“I think that's the flip side of nepotism, which makes it such a challenging topic.”
57 / belief
“Every bag, I think maybe even every item that Hermes makes, has what Hermes calls a blind stamp on it.”
58 / belief
“I think you can sort of tell that internally they're torn, since that's not the full Hermes experience.”
59 / belief
“What we haven't talked about yet and what Hermes at this point certainly is not is this element of whimsy and art that is really, really critical, I think, to the company.”
60 / commitment
“When the quality of a machine stitching gets better than hand stitching, we will do it.”
61 / commitment
“Today, I will tell you that Hermes has a corporate policy of no consultants, and now I know where that came from.”
62 / belief
“Still, Japan is, I believe, around a 10th of the size of China and is 10% of Hermes sales versus 48% for rest of Asia.”
63 / belief
“I think the right way to describe it is actually a je ne sais quoi about what you absorb from those.”
64 / belief
“In 2014, the French court rules that this was illegal. LVMH has to pay a fine, I believe a $10-$15 million fine for having done this.”
65 / belief
“I suspect though that it was strategic of like, our French clients are going to go to these places, they're going to rub shoulders with the Americans, with the British, and then we're going to have a store there so that those Americans, those British, elite, can go purchase our products there too.”
66 / belief
“Here's the crux of it that we've also been teasing on the episode that I think now's the time to come back to, this thing that I'm wearing on my wrist, the Apple Watch partnership.”
67 / belief
“The third thing that they do, they incubate and create a new luxury brand and company in China called Shang Xia. I believe I'm pronouncing that right.”
68 / observation
“You open retail stores in order to just get your product out. The point is distribution.”
69 / belief
“I suspect you probably also found this in research, but when I did, my mind melted.”
70 / observation
“The only way for you to unravel something that is saddle stitched together is to individually go through and cut every single stitch.”
71 / belief
“I believe there's also regulation that every store needs to carry at least one item from each métier.”
72 / evaluation
“It's completely insane. The people who don't work for Hermes, your options are in the dozens.”
73 / evaluation
“I think we spent an hour and a half, and I had the most wonderful service and built an almost friendship with the associate who helped us through the whole process, spending as much time with me as they spent with someone coming in to pick up their Birkin bag.”
74 / evaluation
“I don't know how you do this by hand, and I don't know how you do it by hand 20 times over and over and over for every single layer.”
75 / evaluation
“We got to talk with Domenico De Sole, who was CEO of Gucci, during the fight with Bernard Arnault that we chronicled. Really, I think that was the best part of our LVMH episode.”
76 / evaluation
“All of the puzzle pieces that fit together to create Hermes is an entirely different puzzle than the pieces that fit together to create Louis Vuitton. It's a great reminder that just because you are in the same product category as someone else, you don't have to build a similar business, and you might not even be competing with them.”
77 / evaluation
“There were, I think, some real problems in the business. That is the story of the sixth generation of Pierre-Alexis and Axel, who I think have certainly fixed those problems, but have really led Hermes, the business, and the company into a whole new era.”
78 / evaluation
“At the same time, I find it absolutely terrifying from the perspective of what it means for Hermes and the Hermes' future, not because I think that Apple and technology is going to take over the world, but I think there are some serious problems with this product along the lines of the issues that Bernard identified in the company when he was making his run.”
79 / evaluation
“Uniquely, Hermes still does 85% of their production by hand, by Mastercraft's people in France, as we will talk a lot about.”
80 / preference
“Yes, we're leaving consumer surplus on the table here, because we don't want to be seen as that brand that is $100,000 handbags, even though they are $100,000 handbags.”
81 / recommendation
“Honestly, this is why I don't use ChatGPT for acquired work, I feel like we need to be a hundred percent all the time.”