Fuchsia Dunlop: evaluation

Transcript context

…Now they do. Since the reform and opening up in the ’90s, there are Sichuan restaurants all over the country, and people are crazy for ma la. But I think one of the reasons is that it’s so stimulating, and people now — particularly in cities — they have such a dizzying choice of different foods they can eat, and ma la is a flavor that holds its own in a very crowded marketplace. Also, some more delicate cuisines — they speak more quietly, and they don’t attract your attention in the same way. I think they get drowned out, like the delicate cooking of the Jiangnan region around Shanghai, which we were talking about the last time. But that’s more subtle, more difficult to do well, relies more on particular ingredients. Sichuanese ma la flavor is this flavor bomb you can apply to anything. So you’re right. It travels very well. But your question about why it’s not more pervasive — it’s just because it’s early days. It’s going to be everywhere. So it will take over the world.…

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